The Routeburn track is one of New Zealands most popular tramps. The track is a well trodden 32km long path through some spectacular mountain countryside. Most people do the tramp over three days. However, due to a series of random events I was due at the tracks end in one day and half. This meant I didn't have much time to dawdle so I lugged my pack on and entered the forest. I was a little nervous about what lay ahead, but from my first step to the last I loved every moment. You could not wipe the smile off my face. The first 10km of the track was along a forest track which had taken on the appearance of a waterfall with the persistent rain. Mist prevented visibility beyond the immediate surrounds and streams and waterfalls gushed across the track with the rain. A bypass was required for one waterfall (Earland falls 176m high) which was so powerful, it nearly took my head off just trying to get a look at it. I splashed and rock hopped my way along the track, occassionally passing trampers heading in the opposite direction. They didn't seem to appreciate the rain as much as I, and most eagerly asked "how much further?". The rain and cloud was the perfect start to the walk.
As I broke free of the tree cover the cloud lifted and I was unveiled some of the most spectacular scenery . 
I took some time for lunch and jumped straight back on the track. Hiking along in the sunshine, up and along the side of the mountains I simply laughed and smiled at the views across the valley of snow capped mountains.
I passed many other trampers heading in the opposite direction and most were happy to stop for a chat about walking plans, the wondrous surrounds and where we are all from. That is one of my favourite things about bush walking, how people loosen up and are willing to talk to just about every stranger that crosses their path. I reached the highest point of the track late in the afternoon and began the decent to my campsite. Most of the trampers were off the track for the day so I walked alone for several hours as the sun settled in behind the mountains. I reached my campsite and had camp set up with the last of the light. I had covered over 26km in one day and honestly I barely even noticed. It was fantastic. My campsite was a spectacular spot on the bank of a running stream in a flat between more mountains. Before bed I chatted with my neighbouring campers. We were three lone trampers, but got along like old friends. In the morning we each went our separate ways.
I took my time packing up camp and enjoyed sitting by the stream picking through my breakfast. I had done the lion's share of the walk the previous day so just took my time walking the last 6km through the forest and crossing swing bridges spanning rapid streams. I stepped off the track as the bus arrived and took the ride to Queenstown. I had done the walk. It was fun. Now what?Not being a big fan of Queenstown I organised my exit strategy as soon as I arrived and booked myself on the morning bus up the west coast to Greymouth. Early in the morning I trudged onto the bus with a herd of backpackers, most of whom were headed to the glaciers (Fox or Franz Jospeh). As I had lived on a glacier, when down in Antarctica, I thought this was something I could probably skip. The bus ride wound through the mountains and passed from one lake to another until we reached the coast. I was surprised at how tropical the plants looked. Ferny tropics leading up to alpine mountains. Unusual for an Aussie. The bus served a dual purpose, acting as the newspaper mail truck to towns along the way. Our scallywag bus driver didn't even slow down to piff the rolled up papers across the bonnet and scatter the papers across peoples driveways, as we zoomed along at 110km/h. I couldn't help but laugh everytime. Although I wasn't interested in paying the tour guides to take me up and see the glacier I did take a brief moment to snap a photo and admire the Franz Jospeh glacier from the nearby town.
The bus took me the remainder of the way up the coast to Greymouth. A low key fishing town, and the end of the line for the Southern Alpine train which runs across to Christchurch. As I had missed the only train for the day, I spent a night in Greymouth, enjoyed a seafood dinner and visited the beach. The beach had been completely mined for greenstone (jade). This stuff was extremely valuable to Maori tribes who used them to make pounamu mere (greenstone clubs) which they used to bash each other over the head. Apparently, the stone is stronger than metal so they did do a fair bit of damage and the Maori's did manage to wipe out the Moa (3m tall flightless bird) using the tools.The next day I waited for the train at the station and while minding my own business, randomly bumped into an old mate from my basketball days and his new bride. They were also travelling to Christchurch so we rode the train together, crossing the south island passing through the mountains.
The train ride is pegged as one of the most spectacular train rides in the world. It was pleasant and all but it didn't live up to expectation for me. Maybe it is better in the winter when the mountains are frosted with snow. My friends dropped me at a backpackers in the city where I dumped my bags and went off in search of food. I really liked the look and feel of Christchurch. It seemed to have a European town vibe, with beautiful old buildings and cathedrals, big open public squares, a tram system, all set around the river Avon. I had a beautiful meal by the river and then stumbled across a free buskers comedy show, where five or so buskers each did 20 minute sets to a huge crowd in amongst the old buildings of the arts precinct. The show was great and I laughed like an idiot with a crowd full of strangers. Brilliant!
Early in the morning, I was back on the train, this time heading up the East coast along the edge of the Pacific ocean heading for Picton at the north of the south island. I rode the train with a dutch girl I met at the backpackers and swapped travel stories. I did get a bit sick of having the same conversations with people. This was another scenic train ride. Once again the ride was nice and all but I found it a little dull. I think next time to make it a bit more exciting I might try and ride the train without a ticket. I don't think it would be that hard. I scoped it out for future reference. If you want to take a bag that is no problem as they all go into a luggage carriage and no one checks a ticket when you hand it over. The next bit is getting passed the conductors. That is easy enough. Just hide on the viewing platform the entire ride. They never go there. Easy free train ride and you get plenty of fresh air, with only a touch of diesel.
I was keen to get to Picton as I wanted to get out on the water and explore Queen Charlotte Sound. This is an historically significant site where Captain Cook spent a lot of time on his around the world journeys. He liked it as it has lots of fresh water and food available and has good beaches for running a ship aground to make repairs. I jumped off the train and went straight to the ferry harbour and stepped onto a boat as it was leaving the docks. It was fantastic to zoom across the water and imagine the Endeavour sailing these waters (the area hasn't changed much since Cook was there over 200 years ago). I particulary wanted to see Ship's cove and Motuara Island where Cook claimed New Zealand in the name of the King.
The island has a memorial cairn on top and is preserved as a bird sanctuary with blue penguin nesting boxes throughout. I enjoyed my afternoon on the water. At the top of Motuara island, at the lookout along side Cook's cairn I could see to the north a blue hazy landmass, the north island, my next destination.
