24/01/2009
Two weeks were spent at Davis. Sitting around was a common pass time as well as bla-di bla bla bla ... Lets fast forward to the good bit ... We loaded up two helicopters and flew south-west from Davis along the coast of ice and glaciers cracking off into the ocean. The helicopters dropped two of us at Law-Racovita Base for a week of surveying in the Larsemann Hills. Law-Racovita consists of a hut, as well as two apple and two melon sleeping huts. The base was originally setup by the Aussies in the mid 80s. However, in 2006 the huts were presented to Romania to serve as their station when on Antarctica. The Romanians were not using the base this season so it was available as our work station for the week. The base is located towards the south of east Broknes Peninsula which also hosts the Chinese station Zhong Shan and the Russian station Progess II. Over one full week we ran a GPS campaign and undertook a precise height survey from Law base to Zhong Shan. The work kept us busy, but the real fun came in meeting new people from different countries and observing how they live in Antarctica.
As if working out of huts positioned alongside Russia and China was not enough we were also visited several times by the Indian Antarctic expeditioners who flew in on helicopters, piloted by a Kiwi and a Scot. A few tens of kilometres further to the west, India is preparing to build another station in the Larsemanns and were working in the area from their ship the Emerald Sea. The Indians also brought down on their ship an older scientist from Estonia who had arranged with the Romanians to stay at Law-Racovita. The Estonian scientist shared the base with us and we had a short ceremony when we raised our respective National flags. He spoke English well and was most welcome as he brought many Antarctic stories, and boxes of fresh food and alcohol brought down on the ship from South Africa. Just to add to the international flavour of the Larsemann Hills, the Russian and Chinese bases were also visited by His Serene Highness, Prince Albert II of Monaco who was doing a whirlwind tour of Antarctic research stations. We didn’t meet the Prince but we waved as he flew over head while we were working. Fitting.
During the week we were definitely in the thick of international Antarctic activity. Our work took us through and around Progress II and Zhong Shan. Working along the ridge overlooking the stations we couldn’t help but sneak a peak and watch the stations in action. The Russians were busy building new living quarters as their previous main living building was burnt down at the start of the summer. The Chinese work extremely hard and it was interesting to see how quickly building operations progressed while we were there. OH&S restrictions are not prevalent amongst the Chinese and they don’t muck around when it comes to getting a job done. Teams of builders walking the tightrope of steel frame beams, tens of metres high, was not uncommon. Both the Russians and Chinese were generous and friendly. We were taken on tours of both stations and shared cups of tea with the more confident English speakers. At Law base we had a few Russian visitors who we invited in for tea or beer, depending on the time of day. One evening we drank tea with two Ruskis who brought a guitar and played Russian folk songs. Tea was definitely the link that brought us all together. The offer of a simple cup of tea is universal and led to many interesting moments. I look forward to drinking more tea and seeing where the interactions take me in the future.
We finished our work, no worries, even though the Australian pilots came to collect us a day early because they were worried the weather would turn. It didn’t. After establishing ourselves as part of the community it was with some sadness that we were lifted out of the hills and flown back to Davis. That was the last of my big field trips for the season and I now face the challenge of being couped up on station for the next five weeks. Bugger!
I had been to the Larsemanns two years prior and had a great time then. It seems to be one of the places where I come away with fun stories. One evening I managed to sneak in a new contender for my top memorable/stupid moments. It just happened to be exactly one year ago to the day that I launched myself off Kawarau Bridge near Queenstown, New Zealand. That day I paid the exorbitant fee and swung on the bungy after briefly splashing through the cool running water of the cyan coloured river below. Well I think I topped it this time by going swimming with the Ruskis in the ice cold water of Antarctica as the snow was falling and the sun set for the first time for the season. Afterwards we were all up for a warm cup of tea.
Saturday, January 24, 2009
Monday, January 5, 2009
Take some time
06/01/2009
The last week has been spent in the Southern Prince Charles Mountains (PCMs) at two sites either side of the southern sweep of the biggest glacier on Earth, the Lambert Glacier.
We flew out in the twin-prop C212 aircraft, which first headed southwest around the Ingrid Christensen coast and then over the Amery ice shelf to refuel at a depot at Beaver Lake. We then continued south over the Lambert glacier and passed by many mountains and nunataks as we made our way through the PCMs to Wilson Bluff. Flying over the glacier and mountains it is hard to grasp the magnitude of what it is you are looking at. The grand scale of the place is extraordinary as the glacier overwhelms the mountains peaking out at the surface.
At Wilson Bluff we quickly setup camp of two polar pyramids in a sheltered valley of snow adjacent to our work site. Over the next three days we got all the work done and were then gifted two extra days on site due to new years and poor flying weather. Seeing in the new year as the sun passed behind a mountain in one of the most remote places imaginable and at the most southern place I will ever get was a real thrill. We scrambled up a small rock outcrop which afforded 360 degree views around our local area and opened up the sight across the ice to the nearby mountains draped in snow. With the bonus time we also went on a few exploratory walks around the base and up to the top of the bluff. I had been to Wilson Bluff before and it was interesting to visit again. It definitely wasn’t as enchanting an experience as the first time. It seemed as though nothing had changed and the place had just remained still waiting for my return. I was the last person there two years ago by the way.
After five nights at Wilsons the aircraft returned and flew us over the Lambert glacier to Dalton Corner at the southern tip (or corner) of the Mawson Escarpment. I had been to Daltons two years ago as well and was surprised at how quickly the memories and details of the local area returned to me. At Daltons we simply had to pack up some equipment but this was made more difficult due to the location of the gear two kilometres and quite a way up from the landing site and camp. Over the course of a day we slogged up and down the rocky glaciated soil and piece by piece transferred the equipment to the ski-way cache. Again we were given an extra day on site, this time due to a station imposed no fly day. We didn’t mind as we could think of worse places to be left waiting, such as on station. We made use of the time with a bit more exploring and then mucked around doing some crevasse travel training and mock crevasse rescue.
The grandeur of the ice and mountains in this area is truly spectacular, while little things like the patterns of clouds in the sky and the creaking and cracking of the glacier can be breathtaking. One evening when the wind had a rest and everything was still I took great enjoyment in lying on a rock absorbing the warmth of the sun while gazing up at the wild brush strokes of cirrus clouds dancing through the blue sky.
At the end of the trip we were collected by the aircraft and treated to a rare gift, a flight at low level along the Mawson Escarpment with the back door slightly open so we could lie on the rear landing and look straight out at the mountains, glaciers, crevasses and pools of melt as they passed below. This joy was repeated as we travelled back around the coast, over sea ice, ice bergs and islands, and made our way back to station. Not to let on too much about the amazing time we had.
The last week has been spent in the Southern Prince Charles Mountains (PCMs) at two sites either side of the southern sweep of the biggest glacier on Earth, the Lambert Glacier.
We flew out in the twin-prop C212 aircraft, which first headed southwest around the Ingrid Christensen coast and then over the Amery ice shelf to refuel at a depot at Beaver Lake. We then continued south over the Lambert glacier and passed by many mountains and nunataks as we made our way through the PCMs to Wilson Bluff. Flying over the glacier and mountains it is hard to grasp the magnitude of what it is you are looking at. The grand scale of the place is extraordinary as the glacier overwhelms the mountains peaking out at the surface.
At Wilson Bluff we quickly setup camp of two polar pyramids in a sheltered valley of snow adjacent to our work site. Over the next three days we got all the work done and were then gifted two extra days on site due to new years and poor flying weather. Seeing in the new year as the sun passed behind a mountain in one of the most remote places imaginable and at the most southern place I will ever get was a real thrill. We scrambled up a small rock outcrop which afforded 360 degree views around our local area and opened up the sight across the ice to the nearby mountains draped in snow. With the bonus time we also went on a few exploratory walks around the base and up to the top of the bluff. I had been to Wilson Bluff before and it was interesting to visit again. It definitely wasn’t as enchanting an experience as the first time. It seemed as though nothing had changed and the place had just remained still waiting for my return. I was the last person there two years ago by the way.
After five nights at Wilsons the aircraft returned and flew us over the Lambert glacier to Dalton Corner at the southern tip (or corner) of the Mawson Escarpment. I had been to Daltons two years ago as well and was surprised at how quickly the memories and details of the local area returned to me. At Daltons we simply had to pack up some equipment but this was made more difficult due to the location of the gear two kilometres and quite a way up from the landing site and camp. Over the course of a day we slogged up and down the rocky glaciated soil and piece by piece transferred the equipment to the ski-way cache. Again we were given an extra day on site, this time due to a station imposed no fly day. We didn’t mind as we could think of worse places to be left waiting, such as on station. We made use of the time with a bit more exploring and then mucked around doing some crevasse travel training and mock crevasse rescue.
The grandeur of the ice and mountains in this area is truly spectacular, while little things like the patterns of clouds in the sky and the creaking and cracking of the glacier can be breathtaking. One evening when the wind had a rest and everything was still I took great enjoyment in lying on a rock absorbing the warmth of the sun while gazing up at the wild brush strokes of cirrus clouds dancing through the blue sky.
At the end of the trip we were collected by the aircraft and treated to a rare gift, a flight at low level along the Mawson Escarpment with the back door slightly open so we could lie on the rear landing and look straight out at the mountains, glaciers, crevasses and pools of melt as they passed below. This joy was repeated as we travelled back around the coast, over sea ice, ice bergs and islands, and made our way back to station. Not to let on too much about the amazing time we had.
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