26/12/2008
Every summer many Australians take to the beach and bustle themselves into busy caravan parks to get away from the city and enjoy the sun and surf. South west of Melbourne there is a particularly popular little beach side town called Ocean Grove, which is also well known as the Grove. I have been to the Grove a few times to visit friends, enjoy a bbq and listen to the cricket, as flies and mosquitoes swarmed. This time around though, my summer season has begun with a visit to a place a little less populated, a touch cooler and a place not supportive of insect or any life whatsoever. My summer has begun with a visit to the Grove Mountains, which is more affectionately referred to as the Groves.
Our Antarctic field training finished with a slogged out 14km walk back to Davis station, along a frozen fjord and over the lunar rock strewn landscape of the Vestfold Hills. We set out early as we had heard a whisper on the VHF that it was possible that we could be going into the field that day, and that if we missed this opportunity we wouldn’t get another chance until after Christmas. This turned out to be true and on arrival at station we were told to get our stuff together and be at the helipad ASAP. In the space of two hours we were flying back across the Vestfold Hills and up over the plateau in a helicopter. We arrived at the skiway and loaded most of our cargo into a C212 fixed-wing aircraft and took our seats for the two hour flight to the Groves. I say most of our cargo was packed, because several survey items were destroyed in a tragic helicopter sling load accident (they dropped our boxes from a great height and they died on impact). The incident is still under investigation.
The Groves would have to be one of my favourite places in the world. The sheer sense of isolation does it for me. The mountains are a scattered group of very striking mountain tops and nunataks, jutting out like icebergs in an ocean of ice, about 500km South of Davis station and the closest other life forms. I visited the Groves two years ago and returned this time to upgrade a remote GPS station we have operating in the area. The work is relatively simple techo stuff and simply involved lugging a lot of equipment up a mountain and plugging it all in. All the brain work was done in Canberra earlier in the year.
Three of us camped out in a thin valley of snow resting on the ice sheet at the base of one of the nunataks. There was a persistent wind which kept the polar pyramid tent flapping through the evening while we tried to shade our eyes from the 24 hour sunlight and sleep. We were fortunate to spend the summer solstice out in the field, although everyday is a long day down here when the sun does not set.
We completed the work with a day to spare and took the opportunity to have an explore. With boot chains on and ice axe in hand we soldiered off on the ice and skirted around the moraine field to get a closer look at the nearby mountain formations. The wind howled in our faces, at least the sliver of skin we had exposed, as we were kitted out in full windproof clothing with beanies and balaclavas a must. The wind blew snowdrift at us as we pushed on over rolling waves of ice and crept over small crevasse fields which had fractured around the exposed rock features. The walk was what I would call a real Antarctic experience and brought the efforts of early explorers to light. I am extremely fond of the Groves and fully appreciate the opportunity I have been given to visit this incredible place.
We were fortunate with the weather on site, with relatively warm weather of no cooler than negative ten and the wind although sometimes gusty never got too violent. We were collected after four nights by the C212 boys and flown back to station for Christmas. The "helicopter dropping our important survey equipment" incident continued to cause me headaches, and my patience has been pushed to the limits. The disruption to our work program I can handle as it is unavoidable now and we simply have to minimise the impact on our work. I have found myself more annoyed at the response of several key personnel and have had to look beyond my disappointment as a negative attitude is not healthy in a place like this. Nonetheless, I survived another Antarctic Christmas and couldn’t resist over indulging in the food. We continued working over the holiday in preparation for our next field trip, away from the masses and back into the deep field.
Saturday, December 27, 2008
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
Field training
19/12/08
Three days of field training to satisfy a paper work issue so I could go and do my work. I didn’t make a fuss as it sounded fun and gave me an opportunity for a pleasant walk in the hills, to wet my appetite for the more satisfying field trips yet to come.
Helicopter dropped a party of eight of us at Trajer Ridge hut not far from the rise of ice to the plateau. We started off with a cuppa tea and then went for a circuit walk up and down some hills, practising walking on ice and snow and cutting steps. We then began the walk west to Davis. Different party members each had a go at navigating as people brushed up on reading maps, using a compass and GPS and leading the group. We passed by the occasional penguin as the walk took us around hills, over lakes of ice, and across plenty of snow and rock. We slept out one night in the bivvy and spent the other night at Watts hut. Overall it was just a nice walk in the hills and a good way to get to know a few more expeditioners. All the oddities of being out in the field returned quite quickly. The Vestfolds are a nice place, and we will return to them for some work later in the season. For the time being we have higher priority places to visit.
Three days of field training to satisfy a paper work issue so I could go and do my work. I didn’t make a fuss as it sounded fun and gave me an opportunity for a pleasant walk in the hills, to wet my appetite for the more satisfying field trips yet to come.
Helicopter dropped a party of eight of us at Trajer Ridge hut not far from the rise of ice to the plateau. We started off with a cuppa tea and then went for a circuit walk up and down some hills, practising walking on ice and snow and cutting steps. We then began the walk west to Davis. Different party members each had a go at navigating as people brushed up on reading maps, using a compass and GPS and leading the group. We passed by the occasional penguin as the walk took us around hills, over lakes of ice, and across plenty of snow and rock. We slept out one night in the bivvy and spent the other night at Watts hut. Overall it was just a nice walk in the hills and a good way to get to know a few more expeditioners. All the oddities of being out in the field returned quite quickly. The Vestfolds are a nice place, and we will return to them for some work later in the season. For the time being we have higher priority places to visit.
On station
15/12/08
Davis station. Located on the coast of the Vestfold Hills in Princess Elizabeth Land of East Antarctica. Davis is the largest of Australia’s Antarctic stations and will serve as my base for the next three months.
An extremely short helicopter ride (up and down) got me off the ship and back on station. Not a lot has changed in the two years since I was last here. Although I do have my own private cell this time and, of course, there are a whole heap of new people. Out of the 90 people on station, only five are repeat offenders from when I was here in 2007. New people means new rules (or interpretations of rules) and new social challenges.
This time around there seem to be a few too many people working out how things operate as they go. The current atmosphere appears to be one of strictly policing minor rules and misdemeanours while large scale offences and corruption go unpunished. A bit like the way Australian police officers revenue raise with minor traffic violations, inductions and forms are collected like signs of activity. An induction and signing of a form is required for just about every conceivable activity, including driving a car or using the gym. Of course, once the form is signed and the necessary box is ticked you can do just about what you like.
Despite the ship visiting station twice in a month, rationing is already underway for meat, chocolate, muesli and various other standard items. For people working away from home in a remote environment, food is a vital element in maintaining a positive mindset. The poor resupply is a terrible oversight. Despite being on a continent of ice, there is also rationing of water, until the reverse-osmosis machine is fixed. Three minute showers, twice a week is the quota. There seems to have been a much greater emphasis on the bar this season. That was until they drank the home brew dry. Now they stand around in the bar with confused looks on their faces wondering why the taps are dry.
There are an abundance of tradesman this summer season. They seem to have become the dominant species on what is probably promoted as a scientific research station. Their numbers are swelling as they work away on projects which appear a little unnecessary, such as buildings to support more tradesmen. The way it looks, they just keep on building buildings to replace buildings they will later knock down to put up more buildings? Jollying also seems to be a priority this season. Getting the tradesman out and about is the main focus. I guess if they don’t finish building their buildings that will give them more reason to come back again next season.
Due to the absence of a tick in a box, I am required to undergo three days field training, despite having spent more time in the field than a penguin two years ago. No field training has restricted expeditioners to station limits, preventing people from enjoying a run or walk until that box is ticked. The hampering of exercise is another big no no, in my book, as I see exercise as another critical element to mood. So I am off on field training for a few days. It’ll be good to get out for a walk and I'm already looking forward to getting off station.
Davis station. Located on the coast of the Vestfold Hills in Princess Elizabeth Land of East Antarctica. Davis is the largest of Australia’s Antarctic stations and will serve as my base for the next three months.
An extremely short helicopter ride (up and down) got me off the ship and back on station. Not a lot has changed in the two years since I was last here. Although I do have my own private cell this time and, of course, there are a whole heap of new people. Out of the 90 people on station, only five are repeat offenders from when I was here in 2007. New people means new rules (or interpretations of rules) and new social challenges.
This time around there seem to be a few too many people working out how things operate as they go. The current atmosphere appears to be one of strictly policing minor rules and misdemeanours while large scale offences and corruption go unpunished. A bit like the way Australian police officers revenue raise with minor traffic violations, inductions and forms are collected like signs of activity. An induction and signing of a form is required for just about every conceivable activity, including driving a car or using the gym. Of course, once the form is signed and the necessary box is ticked you can do just about what you like.
Despite the ship visiting station twice in a month, rationing is already underway for meat, chocolate, muesli and various other standard items. For people working away from home in a remote environment, food is a vital element in maintaining a positive mindset. The poor resupply is a terrible oversight. Despite being on a continent of ice, there is also rationing of water, until the reverse-osmosis machine is fixed. Three minute showers, twice a week is the quota. There seems to have been a much greater emphasis on the bar this season. That was until they drank the home brew dry. Now they stand around in the bar with confused looks on their faces wondering why the taps are dry.
There are an abundance of tradesman this summer season. They seem to have become the dominant species on what is probably promoted as a scientific research station. Their numbers are swelling as they work away on projects which appear a little unnecessary, such as buildings to support more tradesmen. The way it looks, they just keep on building buildings to replace buildings they will later knock down to put up more buildings? Jollying also seems to be a priority this season. Getting the tradesman out and about is the main focus. I guess if they don’t finish building their buildings that will give them more reason to come back again next season.
Due to the absence of a tick in a box, I am required to undergo three days field training, despite having spent more time in the field than a penguin two years ago. No field training has restricted expeditioners to station limits, preventing people from enjoying a run or walk until that box is ticked. The hampering of exercise is another big no no, in my book, as I see exercise as another critical element to mood. So I am off on field training for a few days. It’ll be good to get out for a walk and I'm already looking forward to getting off station.
Friday, December 12, 2008
Voyage 2
12/12/2008
For the last three weeks your humble narrator has been travelling as a passenger on the Australian Antarctic Division (AAD) primary ocean transport vessel, the Aurora Australis. Voyage two for the summer Antarctic season.
Life aboard the ship quickly developed into a routine built around the three meals of the day. Food was abundant and it was as if they were trying to fatten us all up, either to later cook, or to assist in developing an extra layer of insulation from the cold. The gym was a popular spot for regular training sessions to combat the best efforts of the chef and the sauna was a new luxury which brought back reminisces of time spent in the top end. The pages of books turned and turned and the keypad got a working over with emails home and in completing long put off work tasks. Participation was also shown in random silly games, work presentations, movie nights, field training, table tennis, bbq and beers on the trawl deck, trivia night, ice berg surveys and the induction of newcomers to King Neptune’s domain as we crossed the 60 degree line of latitude. I also got some time to catch up with some old friends.
The best part of a week was spent unloading cargo and performing helicopter operations around station. I was permitted off the ship for one day to complete some simple work tasks on station and have a brief look around. I nutted out my way around station and the nuances of station life quickly returned. It was good to set foot on the Antarctic continent once again and pleasing to have now visited all three Australian Antarctic stations.
Poor weather towards the end of the Casey re-supply saw the ship out of the bay and into the open ocean to avoid getting into trouble. Time was spent on the bridge assisting in the whale survey program, spotting plumes from killer whales as pods passed around the ship and sometimes breached above the water surface to show off. All sorts of Antarctic wildlife were spotted throughout the voyage. The wandering albatross and smaller shearwaters followed the ship across the open ocean, then the ship was guided along by Antarctic and snow petrels who seemed curious of the ship or were trying to figure out the best way they could eat it. When travelling through the ice, crab-eater seals often waved us on and penguins generally waited until the last moment to flee from ice flows in the ships path. 
Another week was then spent travelling west around the coast of Antarctica, after collecting 20 of the last years Casey wintering party. The voyage west towards Davis was more of a slog as the ship pushed through moderate pack ice and the weather was a bit grey and dreary. The excitement of the adventure waned in the last week of the voyage. Everyone just wanted to get there and get stuck into the season. Enough thinking and talking about it, let’s get busy. One day out from Davis I put my hand up, along with four others, to shave my head to raise money for camp quality (kids with cancer). We raised just over $3500. So I have lost my locks, but it doesn’t seem to have impacted my strength. I am clean shaven and I feel (and look) reborn. Full of energy and raring to get off this piece of junk, orange ship and back on Antarctica.
For the last three weeks your humble narrator has been travelling as a passenger on the Australian Antarctic Division (AAD) primary ocean transport vessel, the Aurora Australis. Voyage two for the summer Antarctic season.
Life aboard the ship quickly developed into a routine built around the three meals of the day. Food was abundant and it was as if they were trying to fatten us all up, either to later cook, or to assist in developing an extra layer of insulation from the cold. The gym was a popular spot for regular training sessions to combat the best efforts of the chef and the sauna was a new luxury which brought back reminisces of time spent in the top end. The pages of books turned and turned and the keypad got a working over with emails home and in completing long put off work tasks. Participation was also shown in random silly games, work presentations, movie nights, field training, table tennis, bbq and beers on the trawl deck, trivia night, ice berg surveys and the induction of newcomers to King Neptune’s domain as we crossed the 60 degree line of latitude. I also got some time to catch up with some old friends. In the first week we travelled across the Southern Ocean from Hobart to Casey station in Wilkes Land region of Antarctica. The ocean was remarkably calm and hospitable. To be heading south on an ocean which resembled glass was unbelievable.
This made the voyage particularly comfortable, but also meant that all the passengers were out of bed and active. I secretly hoped for an increase in the swell to turn the more delicate passengers green and get them out of the dinner que. The first ice berg was spotted two days out of Casey and then it was on as the ship travelled through ice berg alley to drop off 60 expeditioners and 30 tonne of cargo at Australia’s Eastern most Antarctic base.
The best part of a week was spent unloading cargo and performing helicopter operations around station. I was permitted off the ship for one day to complete some simple work tasks on station and have a brief look around. I nutted out my way around station and the nuances of station life quickly returned. It was good to set foot on the Antarctic continent once again and pleasing to have now visited all three Australian Antarctic stations. Poor weather towards the end of the Casey re-supply saw the ship out of the bay and into the open ocean to avoid getting into trouble. Time was spent on the bridge assisting in the whale survey program, spotting plumes from killer whales as pods passed around the ship and sometimes breached above the water surface to show off. All sorts of Antarctic wildlife were spotted throughout the voyage. The wandering albatross and smaller shearwaters followed the ship across the open ocean, then the ship was guided along by Antarctic and snow petrels who seemed curious of the ship or were trying to figure out the best way they could eat it. When travelling through the ice, crab-eater seals often waved us on and penguins generally waited until the last moment to flee from ice flows in the ships path. Another week was then spent travelling west around the coast of Antarctica, after collecting 20 of the last years Casey wintering party. The voyage west towards Davis was more of a slog as the ship pushed through moderate pack ice and the weather was a bit grey and dreary. The excitement of the adventure waned in the last week of the voyage. Everyone just wanted to get there and get stuck into the season. Enough thinking and talking about it, let’s get busy. One day out from Davis I put my hand up, along with four others, to shave my head to raise money for camp quality (kids with cancer). We raised just over $3500. So I have lost my locks, but it doesn’t seem to have impacted my strength. I am clean shaven and I feel (and look) reborn. Full of energy and raring to get off this piece of junk, orange ship and back on Antarctica.
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